Quick Sewing Tips
Hem line To mark the fold to line for your hem, don't mark the hem width. Instead, measure twice the hem allowance above the turned under edge and mark on your fabric, then just turn your hem up to there and secure for stitching. Lengthening a pattern If you need to lengthen a pattern, use graph paper, the grids will enable you to accurately measure the extra pattern length. You can purchase graph paper pads where you buy stationery. To keep facing on the inside Understitching will ensure facings stay where they should be, on the inside. With your seam allowande, clip and trim, then pres towards the facing. With facing right side up, the rest of the garment should be to the left. Sew the facing to the sem allowance with a straight stitch and as close to the seam as possible. Make sure the facing stays flat as you sew. Turn the facing back under and it will stay where it is meant to. Sewing with sequined fabrics. To remove the sequins that will fall in the stitching line, you need to remove the sequins without cutting the thread holding them. Hold back the stitch at the sequin and with sharp pointed scissors, carefully cut the sequin to the center hole, without snipping the thread, remove the sequin and you will have a clear line of seam to sew. If there are gaps after you have finished, replace the sequins with spares from the off cuts of fabric. Most important buttonhole When your garment is nearly finished is the time to mark the buttonholes and buttons. Mostly you start at the top and mark down, or copy where the pattern is marked. The most important button and buttonhole is the one on the bust point. Now you need to know just exactly where your bust point is, and here is how you do it. Drop a tape measure from where the neck edge and shoulder seamline meet, letting it fall over your bust. The point where the tape falls away from your body is your bust point. At this point is where the buttonhole should be placed. If you are doing vertical buttonholes, then place the top of the buttonhole 1/8 inch above the bust point level. Space your remaining buttonholes up and down from this one. Pressing There is a difference between pressing and ironing. Pressing is an up and down motion while ironing is a back and forth gliding motion. When you are sewing a garment it is always 'pressed'. Once a garment is finished, worn or washed, then it is ironed. Pressing is used to firstly set the stitch by stram pressing the area flat. This smooths out puckers and allows the stitching to meld into the fabric. Under Press, this is pressing on the wrong side of fabric. Top press is pressing on the right side and be sure to use a pressing cloth to prevent the nap from flattening and producing a chiny surface. Off press on the right side of the fabric to remove the shine or raise the texture. To do this,place a piece of damp cheescloth directly the right side of the garment and place a hot dry iron so it just touches the damp cloth. This force the steam into the fabric and raises the texture but make sure the fabric doesn't water spot. CTBaird is an author of many articles and the Sewing eGuide “Sew More For U” http://www.sewmoreforu.com Copyright © 2005-2006 CTBaird Rights Reserved Sew More For U
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